Now that I have my camera back, just thought I'd share some pics and thoughts 'bout my brand new zip-window hood!

Here it is! It's wonderful, it's water-tight, and I want it to stay that way. Crystal-clear plastic, no rips, seams, tears, slices, patches, or seamsealing goop. I want (nay, need) this hood to last a good long time, so I spent a fair amount of brainpower determining how to avoid the problems my old hood had: stretching and ripping seams, twisting edges, and the windows tearing out at the weld lines. The inflexible width of the rear window zipper adds a layer of complexity too: if it wasn't for that, I'd be happy using the hood-folding method I used previously.

Here's what I've come up with to try to keep the top from bearing any stresses when folded up. I've posted it here to add to the forum's general Pot O' Knowledge, and frankly cuz I'm kinda bored this afternoon and this gives me something to do.

Notice my first big modification: I fastened the snap strip to the flange under the rear edge of the hood, and snapped the hood to it, instead of rigidly fastening it down as original. The reason for this will become clear later.

 

1. To fold the hood, I drop the zip window first, letting it drape inside the car.

 

2. Pulling the bows back as usual, pull the hood free and rearward...

3. ...drape the hood smoothly over the trunk without folding anything...

4. ...and make very sure the bows are clear of the rear window.

5. The raingutter seam at the leading edge of the hood can get stressed if the hood is not fully draped back over the boot. Make sure that point is laying easy...

 

6. ...and then fold the raingutter completely under. This makes sure it doesn't twist and stretch over time as the hood folds, making it seal poorly as time goes by.

7. Flip the hood forward and over the seats. Since the raingutter is folded, the corner windows will flip in too. Notice how tight the turn is at the rear edge between the windows, along that zipper. No problem, since we fix it...

8. ...by unfastening the end snaps, and folding the corner windows fully in without stressing the bottom edge!

9. Now we can fold the windows fully in along the zip seam...

10....and be reassured that the fold is well away from all the window welds.

11. Fold the sides all the way in, until they meet in the center. This keeps the corner windows completely flat and uncreased.

12. Flip the hood back in half. It's a natural fold point, the way the top was shipped, at the raingutters.

13. And now the rear snaps come into play. Unsnap the rear edge..

14. And tuck it under the rear lip. This removes all the folding stresses along the rear edge, and the hood is laying comfortably, neat as you please, on top of the bows.

15. Turn your attention to the underside, roll up the back window...

16. ...and tuck it behind the bows. This gives plenty of space for the top boot.

17. Or, alternatively, a long leather strap with three snaps...

18. ...can hold the top down very nicely!

19. Reverse the process to erect the hood. It's a little more work, but the top should last ages in a stress-free environment like this.

Oh, while I'm on the subject of leather straps, two 10" lengths with snaps on the end work great for holding the rolled-up window out of the way when the hood is up.

Bill Thompson
"Nigel," '76 Midget

...If your spridget doesn't leak, it's out of oil.